You have no idea how hard it is to get a decent precision screwdriver set that will be still small, with good bits, robust and good looking. I have no idea what was I expecting when I ordered (on sale) something that is called XIAOMI Wowstick 1F+.
What are Motor Stop and Airmode features in INAV and how they differ from each other when used on multirotors and fixed-wing airplnes? Should you use Motor Stop on multirotor? Should you use Airmode on a fixed wing? Long story short:
- On multirotors, Motor Stop not recommended to use while Airmode is recommended to use. More than that, you can not use them both at the same time, since they exclude each other!
- On fixed wing aircrafts Motor Stop and Airmode are highly advised to use together.
What to do when Matek F722-STD flight controller is not booting without connected battery and connection from Configurator is not working? Simple, power GPS and magnetometer from a different pad.
All 5V pads are powered only when external power is supplied to the flight controller. Not when power is applied via USB cable. If you connected GPS and magnetometer to 5V pad, it will not work and screw I2C bus up. To solve this problem, connect GPS to 4V5 pad instead!
Think about an electric motor for your 5 (or maybe even 6) inch acro or FPV racing quadcopter. What do you see? Something in a 2205-2306 size range with a KV rating somewhere 2300KV and 2600KV. Sometimes even more. And it works great, as long as you wat 5-inch props and 4S batteries. You can choose and choose and choose between different models of different manufacturers. But what if you want to go 6S or 7 inches? You have a problem. Very limited choice of motors (and propellers as well).
Luckily, it starts to change and you can actually but lower KV 220x and 230x motors. I got my hands on EMAX RS2 2206 1600KV since I'm not very happy with TBS Endurance I'm using on my 7-inch endurance drone. They seem to be missing some torque and when I've found that new low-KV (1600KV is still a lot) EMAX motors, I did not waited long to order. I love RS2205S and RS2306 and hope RS2 will not disappoint me.
What can I say about EMAX RS2 2206 1600KV before installing them on anything? (so far I got only 2, the second pair is on a way)
- They finally changed those plastic boxes to something smaller
- RS2 2206 1600KV look good for sure. Black and Red!
- No bottom cap since, well, you do not really need it after all
- 29g with wires
- 4mm shaft made from titanium (at least they say so)
- Bearings are 8x4x3 if I can measure
- They kept this nice screw in the bottom instead of a c-clip
- Mounting holes spacing has changed! Instead of a standard 16x19mm it is 16x16mm now! Check your frame. The great majority should accept 16x16mm but there might be some rare ones that will not!
- Single wire winding. Looks ok, TBS Endurance has a nicer winding tho!
How will EMAX RS2 2206 1600KV behave in the air driving 7-inch propellers? work? Good, I hope…
FrSky is not making things simple with R9 long range system. New firmware appears quite often and there is no way to flash receivers over the air. You can use some PC software, passthrough from FC and things like that, but from my perspective, as long as you can get to the receiver itself, the simplest way to flash R9 Slim and R9 Mini is to actually connect them to Taranis or Horus and do it from the radio itself. How? Like this!
7-inch endurance FPV drone is my new thing. There is one little problem tho: good 7-inch low pitch efficient propellers. The choice is that there is almost no choice at all! The list of 7-inch propellers with a pitch or around 4" and preferably 2 bladed (efficiency) is as follows:
And I already know that some those above are total crap!
In the last two weeks, I had plenty of time to sit in front of Fusion 360 to design a few things, but no time to 3D print anything. As a result, I have a couple of almost ready projects. Yesterday I showed you 3D Printed Dualcopter Reloaded. Today I will show you 3D printed tricopter drone. Tomorrow? Who knows…
Last year I have designed and made a fully printable quadcopter frame called Isando. It was fun, but well… There are plenty quadcopter frames over there. Cheap and much stronger than anyone can print at home. But Tricopters? Good luck with that.
I've taken some of the parts of Isando Quadcopter frame, designed some more and here it is.
The most important part of any tricopter is, of course, the tail motor tilting mechanism. I had the following options:
- no bearings, just bushings
- single bearing and using the servo as a second support point
- two bearing and the servo is used only as a torque source, not support point
Guess which option I've chosen? Right… The tail will be quite heavy, so to somehow help with that, the rear motor has enough space to use 5-inch or 6-inch propeller. And the rest? The rest is quite standard:
- Standard FPV camera in the front
- 30.5mm hole spacing flight controller in a middle
- video transmitter and radio receiver just behind the flight controller
- ESCs on arms
- 5-inch props in front
- 5 or 6-inch props in the back
Of course, I will share STL files but only after I will print and assemble this thing. So please wait a little longer.
Let's get our hand dirty and fix an old power bank. I got this thing a few years ago but recently it died. Li-Ion 18650 cells inside just died and now it even can not do a full charge of a smartphone.
What we will do over here:
- get this thing apart
- solder together 3 18650 batteries I got for cheap from disassembled power tools battery packs
- I will be coughing after inhaling too much of soldering acid fumes
- have a nice talk about a zombie apocalypse, nuclear holocaust, communism and Kapton tape
- get things done!
The first generation of my 3D Printed Dualcopter was not the best. It was flying. Somehow. Poorly. Crashed. But for a moment it was flying alright.
I'm slowly designing the second generation of Dualcopter. This time smaller in scale since instead of 10-inch propellers, it will be using 5-inch ones. And smaller 2205 motors. And some carbon fiber to support 3D printed elements and hopefully give it a little more structural strength.
The general idea is as follows:
- "Structure" will be provided by two vertical carbon pipes
- Motors and propellers will be in a duct. Not EDF, but almost. The idea is not to get more efficiency but to guide the air to the control surfaces. The goal is to have some control during descend too. Version without duct had none
- Upper motor will be 2205 2300KV with 5×3 3 bladed propeller
- Lower motor will be 2205 2600KV with 4×4 3 bladed propeller
- Lower prop will be working in the already accelerated air so it needs more pitch speed. More RPM and higher pitch = higher pitch speed
- 4S battery on top to move the center of gravity far from control surfaces to give them plenty of torque
- 2 9g servos
- flight controller running INAV
And that is more or less all… Will it work better than the previous one? I hope so 🙂
I like my 7-inch endurance quadcopter. It might not be the fastest one. Or the smoothest one. But it gives quite a lot of fun when just cruising with interesting views. And, since the battery lasts for more than 10 minutes, you can have this fun for a long, long time