HC-12 433MHz wireless serial communication module configuration

Description

HC-12 are cheap 433MHz wireless serial port communication modules with a range up to 1800m in open space. Each costs about $5 when bought from China, and 2 of them can create wireless UART link that can be used, for example, to transfer telemetry data from UAV. Or drive IoT device. Or connect sensors. Or whatever else one can think of.

HC-12 433MHz wireless serial communication module

It is based on SI4463 RF chip, has build in microcontroller, can be configured using AT commands and allows to use external antenna. Working frequency is divided into 100 channels starting from 433,4MHz up to 473,0MHz with 400kHz channel separation. Maximum output power is 100mW (20dBm) and receiver sensitivity differs from -117dBm to -100dBm, depending on transmission speed. It accepts 3,2V-5,5V power supply and can be used with 3.3V and 5V UART voltage devices (5V safe). Continue reading “HC-12 433MHz wireless serial communication module configuration” »

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How to flash firmware to ESP-01 ESP8266 WiFi module

One can think that internet know everything about everything. Yesterday I’ve learned the hard way that is does not. It took me better part of evening to find a working way to flash firmware, any firmware, to cheap ESP-01 ESP8266 WiFi modules. There are many tutorials, most of them were just wrong in my case. If I had Windows PC, that might have been simpler. But I don’t.

ESP8266 ESP-01 Version 2

So, if you want to flash ESP8266 on any PC (Windows, Mac, Linux) here is what you should do: Continue reading “How to flash firmware to ESP-01 ESP8266 WiFi module” »

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How to measure battery capacity with Arduino

Battery capacity measurement can be useful in many situations. And it is not hard, only requires enough time to discharge battery completely with know resistance and a way to measure voltage in the circuit. Ohm’s law will to the rest: I = U / R

Let’s say, we want to measure standard AA 1.5V alkaline battery capacity. Why 1.5V? They are common, made by many manufacturers and sold for different prices. And not always more expensive is better. To do this, we will need:

  • AA 1.5V battery
  • resistor to discharge it. We need high current to discharge battery in reasonable time, so low resistance is suggested. On the other hand, high current means o lot of heat, so we need a resistor that can survive this. I suggest using 2.2Ohm 5W ceramic resistors.
  • Arduino to measure voltage in circuit. Any Arduino or plain ATmega or ATtiny with A/D converter will do.

So, first a simple electrical circuit:

how to measure battery capacity with arduino

And some code that will be run every second:

voltage = 5.0 * ((float) analogRead(V_METER)) / 1024.0;

float current = voltage / R_LOAD;
joules += voltage * current;
float wattHours = (joules / 3600.0) * 1000.0;

And here how it work:

  1. We need to measure voltage in circuit. This is why, in first step, we read 10bit A/D converter and scale output to 5V. Why 5V? Arduino Uno works on 5V, and it is the reference voltage here,
  2. Next, lets compute current using Ohm’s law I = U/R,
  3. With know current current we can compute work using P = U * I and store it in joules variable,
  4. Last step is to change joules to Watt hours.

If instead of Watt hours we want Ampere hours, there is no need to count joules. Instead of that, sum current and final value divide by 3600 (there are 3600 seconds in one hour). Like this:

voltage = 5.0 * ((float) analogRead(V_METER)) / 1024.0;

float current = voltage / R_LOAD;
ampereSeconds += current;
float ampereHours = ampereSeconds / 3600.0;

Full code is available here

Notes

  • this circuit allows to measure batteries with voltage up to 5V. Anything above it will damage A/D converter
  • to measure higher voltages, voltage divider will be required
  • with higher voltage, power loss on resistor will increase. It will get very hot and might burn

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VirtualWire support for Raspberry Pi

FS1000A and XY-MK-5V 433MHz RF modules are very often first choice for cheap and dirty Do It Yourself wireless communication. Pair of those , allowing one way radio communication, const less than 3 dollars or euros. So they are really cheap. Limited range and transmission speed limits their real life usage, but simple assembly and extremely easy programming are additional advantage over more complex solutions. Specially in Arduino world, with VirtualWire library. I will not write about it right now, there is enough on the internet already.

FS1000A and XY-MK-5V 433MHz RF modules for Raspberry Pi

Continue reading “VirtualWire support for Raspberry Pi” »

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Programming ATtiny85 and ATtiny45 with Arduino IDE

What is ATtiny

ATtiny is a fimily of microcontrollers by Atmel, the same company that provides ATmega series used widely in “real” Arduinos. Comparing to ATmega, ATtinys are much simpler, smaller (usually), with less features. But also cheaper, easier to connect, using less energy, and trust me, in many many cases you do not need 32kB of flash memory. If, for example, you want to build a device that will beep every 10 minutes which microcontroller would you use: huge DIP-28 ATmega328P from Arduino UNO R3 or small DIP-8 ATtiny25 that ususes way less power and costs around 1EUR? I would use ATtiny.

ATtiny85 as light sensor with I2C bus

There are many microcontrollers in ATtiny family. In this tutorial and all future in this series I will concentrate on ATtiny85 with 8kB of flash memory. There are 2 simpler versions of it: ATtiny25 and ATtiny45 with respectively 2kB and 4kB of flash, but price difference between them is so small, that I see no point of trying to use them. When buoght from China, it might be even possible to buy ATtiny85 cheaper than its smaller brothers. Continue reading “Programming ATtiny85 and ATtiny45 with Arduino IDE” »

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Read RC PWM signal with Arduino

Arduinos are cheap and simple development board. You can do a lot with even the simplest of them. For example build you own quadcopter and flight controller (after all MultiWii = Arduino + MPU6050). Of course, this is not as simple as one might imagine and there are few (actually a lot) obstacles that needs to be overcomed. One of them, and very basic, is how to read RC PWM signal provided by radio receiver.

Signal to decode

RC PWM signal passed from radio receiver to servos, ESC, flight controllers is encoded with a length of pulse. Pulse length of 1000us (micro seconds) is minimum stick position and pulse of 2000us length is maximum stick position. Pulses repeat every 20ms for standard 50Hz refresh rate. Like this:

RC PWM Signal

So far, nothing fancy. Continue reading “Read RC PWM signal with Arduino” »

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Using transistors as switches

I think all popular computerized DIY devices like Arduino, Raspberry Pi or any other microprocessor/microcontroller based boards has one common drawback: low output current. Few miliamps per pin. While this is enough to light a single LED or provide input to other electronics device, it is far from enough to run a motor or power a LED strip. It’s all about current.

Good thing this problem can be solved with two additional devices: resistor and bipolar transistor. Together they can act as a switch. Idea is simple: low current (and voltage if you wish) applied to transistor base causes bigger current (and voltage) to be passed between collector and emmiter. We have two choices: NPN or PNP bipolar transistor. Switch that uses NPN transistor is open/enabled when positive voltage is applied to base. In other words, base is connected to plus.

NPN transistor as switch Continue reading “Using transistors as switches” »

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DIY FPV LC power noise filter

Both electrical motor and ESC are source of electrical noise that influences all devices connected to the same battery. This is why, very often, on airplanes or big multirotors FPV circuit is powered from separate battery. On small or medium drones this can be hard to archive: additional weight will influence both flight performance and flight time. So, when your setup is suffering from a power noise manifesting itself as vertical bars or other image distortions on goggles/monitor, you can do 3 things:

  • use separate battery to power camera and video TX,
  • cut the noise using LC low-pass power filter.

I would choose low-pass filter. Cheaper and lighter. You can buy one for a few dollars/euros or make 10 by yourself for the same price.

LC power noise filter for FPV

Continue reading “DIY FPV LC power noise filter” »

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Raspberry Pi: reset external I2C devices (not only I2C)

Electronic, and specially computerized, devices likes to hang from time to time. There are many reasons: software bug, hardware error, voltage drop, interference, too long wire, random incident. I’ve learned this hard way during work on my Raspberry Pi based weather station. From time to time external DTH22 temperature/humidity sensor refused to work. Only solution was to cut power to DHT22 for a second (or less). It was kind of irritating to go the attic, unplug sensor and plug in again. Later on I had similar issues with HD44780 LCD display over I2C bus. Device was hanging and only solution was to cut power. So, I’ve found a solution: as a prevention cut power for a second every 30 minutes with a simple electronic device I’ve called “Power Cutter”.

Raspberry Pi power cutter

Continue reading “Raspberry Pi: reset external I2C devices (not only I2C)” »

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Raspberry Pi + MOSFET = High power switch

With all the possibilities, Raspberry Pi requires additional hardware to turn on and off any additional hardware. GPIOs built in power limit is low: 3.3V, 16mA per GPIO, but not more that 50mA total). And while it might be enough to light a small LED, it is not enough for anything else. Forget about motors, strong LEDs, relays. Anything that uses more that 16mA on input will destroy Raspberry Pi.

Luckily, there are things called MOSFET. To keep things short: they are special kind of transistors that can be used to turn on and off devices with high power requirements. Unfortunately, most MOSFETs require more that 3.3V Raspberry Pi GPIO provides. So you either have to use 3.3V logic compatible MOSFETs or add few other elements and use more common 5V compatible MOSFET like 30N06. And 30N06 MOSFET transistor can handle a lot of thing: up to 30A and 60V. So it’s more that enough to handle most 12V motors, relays, lights, LEDs, etc.

30N06 MOSFET Raspberry Pi

 

Required elements:

  • NPN BC547 (or compatible) transistor,
  • PNP BC640 (or compatible) transistor,
  • 30N06 MOSFET transistor,
  • 3x 10kOhm resistors,
  • 4.7kOhm resistors,
  • 1N4001 (or similar) diode

If it was Arduino with 5V logic, transistors would not be required. But with Raspberry Pi’s 3.3V logic they are required to bump voltage from 3.3V GPIO port provides to 5V MOSFET needs. Additionally, if we would be powering any coil device (motor, relay), flyback diode would be required to secure MOSFET from voltage spikes. Even if there is no coil, flyback diode still can be used. Just to be safe.

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