Yes, I know it’s few months too late. And it’s not really a review but rather, since I was never able to use it or I describe my friends experience with RunCam Split.
I own RunCam Split. I own it for like 2 months now, and it’s still in a box. Never connected, never really used. And in the meantime, I’ve build 2 mini quads are rebuild third. Why is that? Is there something wrong with RunCam Split that I’m not using it anywhere? And not planning to? Let’s be quick about it:
I’ve finally decided to make a decent use of my GPS Racer quadcopter. Until now, I mainly used it to test new things for INAV and that is more less all. RunCam Owl Plus FPV camera turned out to be non-flyable in the night, so I’ve decided to go one step further…
RunCam Night Eagle
Yes, RunCam Night Eagle. I’ve seen couple of video reviews of this camera on YouTube and decided that this is what I really need: a good night vision camera. Not a camera that can see after sundown. A camera that can see in the night! Read More
Yesterday I finally maidened my GPS Racer in full FPV configuration. RunCam Owl Plus and VTX finally arrived, it was not raining, so I took recording gear after sunset and went flying.
To be precise, it was not “night”. But it was pretty dark. Too dark for my RunCam Swift. Owl Plus was sensitive enough to fly. It was not perfect, but doable. Next step: not IR blocked lens and IR emitter for real night flying. Both have been ordered.
Plus, thanks to GPS and OSD I finally saw the speed this thing can do. 92km/h recorded, but that was not the limit on those 6030 props. I do not think I’ve opened throttle to max…
My RunCam HD died after 5 months in a drawer. Reason: battery destroyed. It had enough energy for approx. 2 seconds of operation. So I had a choice: buy original battery from RunCam for $9.99 plus shipment, or fix it DIY style. I’ve choces the second option.
Luckily for us, RunCam used generic 803035 LiPo 1S, 3,7V battery that can be purchased in specialized stores. I’ve paid around $6 for mine, but if you look hard enough, you should find something even cheaper. Also, luckily (or not) there is a battery plug: 2 pin JST 1.25mm.
I have no idea how I was able to build drones before I've bought my 3D printer… I before I've learned basics of 3D design. So, today I present you upgraded version of my Runcam HD / Mobius camera mount I've designed few months ago.
Last week I’ve been finally able to put my new mini quad into the air. It’s based on Reptile XR4 220 frame. Looks like I’ve succeeded with my build this time, since there were no major problems. Few minor, yes, but no major.
My Reptile X4R 220 mini quad has following specification:
Motors: EMAX RS2205 2300KV
ESC: FVT LettleBee 20A
Propellers: DAL 5040
Flight controller: SPRacingF3 clone running INAV with asynchronous gyroscope and accelerometer. I’ve already written few words about async gyro updates here
Radio RC link: ***FrSky X4R-SB***
Camera: Runcam Swift
VTX: TS5823S 200mW
Micro MinimOSD with MW-OSD 1.5
Here is short, uncut, video from maiden flight:
The only problem I’ve encountered, was with OSD. It stops overlaying data on aggressive maneuvers for a second and then OSD comes back again. Probably it’s because of voltage drop/noise. MAX7456 is extremely voltage quality sensitive. I will try to fix that with additional capacitor on 5V line this weekend.
Life of my previous FPV camera was rather short. RunCam PZ0420M died after a crash only few weeks after purchase. Well, it happens. As my next camera I’ve chosen RunCam Swift for following reasons: I like RunCam, Swift is small and it has double mount! 50 dollars and 4 weeks later it arrived.
After few test flights I have to admit, that PID values for Reptile 500 quadcopter frame I posted here are too aggressive. Way too aggressive. Specially D coefficient was too big and was main source of high frequency vibrations visible as camera jello. Reducing P and D, and slight increase of I improved quadcopter behavior. Current settings: