For last few months I’ve been happily 3D printing PLA on glass. Prints were repeatable, initial adhesion was just fine, ready print was easy to remove after glass cooled down. But I wouldn’t be me if I did not wanted to try something new. So I tried “the ideal 3D printing surface” BuiltTak.
My initial impressions were very positive. Nice mate surface a little similar to fine grain sanding paper. I was a little afraid that adhesion will be even too good and it will be hard to remove the print. But hey, they had to think of it, right? After all, BuildTak is quite expensive after all. Continue reading “Review: BuildTak Printing Surface” »
Review: BuildTak Printing Surface was last modified: February 21st, 2017 by Dziku
Elastic filaments opened brand new areas for 3D printing. We are finally able to print something that bends, compresses and stretches. While TPE (ThermoPlastic Elastomer) filaments like NinjaFlex or FlexiSmart are still about 4 times more expensive than plain old PLA, they are not so expensive not to give them a try.
Unfortunately, due to the fact that they are elastic even before melted and extruded, they require special printing conditions. During my experiments with FlexiSmart I've came down to following conclusions:
Because TPE is elastic, flow through the nozzle has to be as smooth as possible. If not, it will coil inside extruder
Bowden extruder system greatly increases chance of failure. Friction of bowden, while small enough for ABS or PLA, is too big for TPE. Filament will coil. Direct extruder gives less chance of failure
One has to pay big attention to the distance between extruder nozzle and bed. Usually it has to be a litter bigger that for PLA or ABS. In all the cases when I was switching from PLA to TPE, I had to raise nozzle a little. If not, TPE coiled. TPE has better initial adhesion than PLA, so rising a nozzle does not have side effects
Filament retraction is a huge NO NO. Disable retraction since it will increase the chance of coiling significantly
With no retraction it is a good idea to enable Combing. Nozzle, instead of taking the shortest route to travel, dripping TPE everywhere, will move above already printed layer. This greatly improves print quality
Top printing speed is 30mm/s, but I recommend slower speeds. I have best results when printing at 15mm/s. On 25mm/s quality is still acceptable, but degradation starts to be visible
I had best results of TPE printing on glass with 220deg nozzle temperature and 60deg bed temperature
Not everything can be printed with elastic filament. Any thin vertical structure will come deformed. After all, it will move during printing due to a friction with extruder nozzle
While I was printing with FlexiSmart, almost all points from the above list will be true for other TPE (NinjaFlex). Temperatures might be slightly different, but general rules applies.
How to print with elastic filament was last modified: February 7th, 2017 by Dziku
It’s still middle of winter here in northern hemisphere, but I’m slowly preparing for next flying season. One of my goals is to push my DIY HC-12 Telelemetry System to a next level. In both range and quality. For quality I’m planning small hardware LTM decoder with LCD. For range, I want to reach at least 1.5km with 9600bps FU3 mode and 2.5km with 1200bps FU4 mode.
It's not easy to fly FPV during winter weather. You either have to have weather proof quadcopter (airplane) or fly indoors. And it's not simple to find a good, big and cheap place to fly FPV in. But, how about flying FPV in a living room?
I have no idea how I was able to build drones before I've bought my 3D printer… I before I've learned basics of 3D design. So, today I present you upgraded version of my Runcam HD / Mobius camera mount I've designed few months ago.
Flying season 2016 is slowly coming to an end on northern hemisphere. That means less time spent on an airfield and more time spent behind a desk. For this autumn I've found a very interesting, small project: Dualcopter.
Dualcopter is an UAV with two coaxial contra-rotating propellers and 2 control surfaces driven by servos. Lift and yaw are controlled by propellers, while pitch and roll by ailerons placed below motors. This video illustrates how it looks like:
My Dualcopter will be slightly different. Instead of foam and wood I will use 3D printed parts connected together CA glue and zip ties. Maybe it will not be super strong and probably will not survive any crash, but should be enough to make it fly for a minute or so. Almost all parts would be either 3D printed or taken from spare box. I'm not planning any new purchases.
Motors: Turnigy MT2213 935KV
Props: APC 1045 MR
ESC: Afro 20A
FC: Flip32 probably with INAV inside
Battery: 1300mAh 3S
Weight: around 800g with battery
So far, after 2 evenings I have this:
Two motors mounted on a frame.
Next step would be to build bottom section with ailerons and battery compartment.
Project Dualcopter – worklog #1 was last modified: September 30th, 2016 by Dziku
Few days ago I've decided to do something new: timelapse video of a 3D print. It's kind of fascinating to watch extruder places layer after layer of molten PLA… too bad it's taking so long to print something bigger…
Printer: Malyan M150
Thing: 35 deg RunCam HD / Mobius stand for mini-quads
3D Print Timelapse Video was last modified: September 30th, 2016 by Dziku
3D Printers give almost endless possibilities and 3D printed gliders can be a great weekend project. Last week I’ve printed a small fleet of Monarch XL gliders from Thingieverse. Single glider takes around 45 minutes to print at 50mm/s and few additional minutes to glue all the parts together. Add an hour for a rubber launcher and done. Great fun for a small price. It flies surprisingly well and my daughters loves them.
Flight characteristics improves when dihedral is added. Also elevator can be adjusted, so glider can do loops! Great fun for a very low price!
3D Printing: rubber launched glider was last modified: September 3rd, 2016 by Dziku