Prusa offers two types of steel sheet beds for their Prusa i3 MK3 series 3D printers: smooth PEI and powder coated PEI. The smooth PEI version is the default, but you can get the powder-coated PEI if you pay extra. It's not cheap but has one or two handy features: it works great for bigger prints, and you can print PET-G on it without any separation layers (stick glue and similar).
3D printing does not end on PLA, PET-G, and TPU filaments. Yes, they are great and work just fine for the majority of cases. However, there are more options than just the basic filament types. Polypropylene (PP filament) is one of them.
Strong, but not stiff, can be used to make hinges, enclosures, and boxes. During the impact, it deforms but with less "spring effect" that TPU filament has.
The main problem PP filament has is that it's rather difficult to print. It likes to warp and sticks almost only to other Polypropylene elements. Good luck trying to glue it!
I love this part of me being a creator and an influencer, where I can show you some amazing things created by other people. And today, the joy is double, because it is an extremely cool frame designed by a guy from Spain that goes under the nickname of Micrathene FPV.
What it is? Well, like I mentioned, it is a fully 3D printed 3″ FPV frame with a place for a GPS, FPV camera and (yes, I’m not joking on that) camera tilt! There is enough space inside for a servo and a camera mount is pivoting by default.
The wet filament is a bad filament. 3D printers hate them since during melting the filament water that it contains turns into steam, expands and creates holes, bulges and other distortions and problems in a print. So filaments are more sensitive to moisture: TPU or Nylon. But even PLA might absorb water if it is kept in a humid environment for a long time. The solution is simple: DIY filament dehumidifier (also knows as filament dryer or dry box) made from the storage box, hygrometer, silica gel as a water absorbent and some window seals. The results are amazing!
Who could have imagined that tricopters can be so much fun? For sure they are interesting devices that lost a lot of "market" when quadcopters gained extra torque and plenty of reaction moment to do fast yaw turns. Almost no one flies them now. Too bad… And good luck if you want to buy a tricopter frame for 5-6 inch propellers. There is almost nothing on the market right now!
Luckily, we are living in interesting times, and everyone with few hundred dollars can get a 3D printer and make whatever he wants (right, if it was that simple…). Thanks to this, I give you a 3D printed tricopter frame designed to use miniquad parts: 2205 motors, 5 inch propellers and 9 gram servo:
STL files can be downloaded from Thingiverse
- Racestar BR2205 2300KV motors
- Racestar RS30A Lite ESC
- Turnigy TSS-10HM servo or similar
- Omnibus F4 flight controller
- RunCam Swift camera
- VTX03 video transmitter
- Lollipop antenna
- R-XSR receiver
- STL files
Flight controller runs INAV 2.0.1
In the last two weeks, I had plenty of time to sit in front of Fusion 360 to design a few things, but no time to 3D print anything. As a result, I have a couple of almost ready projects. Yesterday I showed you 3D Printed Dualcopter Reloaded. Today I will show you 3D printed tricopter drone. Tomorrow? Who knows…
Last year I have designed and made a fully printable quadcopter frame called Isando. It was fun, but well… There are plenty quadcopter frames over there. Cheap and much stronger than anyone can print at home. But Tricopters? Good luck with that.
I've taken some of the parts of Isando Quadcopter frame, designed some more and here it is.
The most important part of any tricopter is, of course, the tail motor tilting mechanism. I had the following options:
- no bearings, just bushings
- single bearing and using the servo as a second support point
- two bearing and the servo is used only as a torque source, not support point
Guess which option I've chosen? Right… The tail will be quite heavy, so to somehow help with that, the rear motor has enough space to use 5-inch or 6-inch propeller. And the rest? The rest is quite standard:
- Standard FPV camera in the front
- 30.5mm hole spacing flight controller in a middle
- video transmitter and radio receiver just behind the flight controller
- ESCs on arms
- 5-inch props in front
- 5 or 6-inch props in the back
Of course, I will share STL files but only after I will print and assemble this thing. So please wait a little longer.
The first generation of my 3D Printed Dualcopter was not the best. It was flying. Somehow. Poorly. Crashed. But for a moment it was flying alright.
I'm slowly designing the second generation of Dualcopter. This time smaller in scale since instead of 10-inch propellers, it will be using 5-inch ones. And smaller 2205 motors. And some carbon fiber to support 3D printed elements and hopefully give it a little more structural strength.
The general idea is as follows:
- "Structure" will be provided by two vertical carbon pipes
- Motors and propellers will be in a duct. Not EDF, but almost. The idea is not to get more efficiency but to guide the air to the control surfaces. The goal is to have some control during descend too. Version without duct had none
- Upper motor will be 2205 2300KV with 5×3 3 bladed propeller
- Lower motor will be 2205 2600KV with 4×4 3 bladed propeller
- Lower prop will be working in the already accelerated air so it needs more pitch speed. More RPM and higher pitch = higher pitch speed
- 4S battery on top to move the center of gravity far from control surfaces to give them plenty of torque
- 2 9g servos
- flight controller running INAV
And that is more or less all… Will it work better than the previous one? I hope so 🙂
Moxon antenna in layman terms, it’s probably a simplest linearly polarized directional antenna. It’s like a bent halfwave dipole with a bent reflector in a back. Think about it as a very simplified Yagi antenna. It does not have much gain but has very good backward rejection. And thank’s to a simplicity, Moxon is super easy to build at home. And I’m proud of radio carrying handle snap mount. I think I did a good job over here.
I’ve built mine with some 3D printed parts, 0.8mm copper welding wire, 22cm of RG174 coax and RP-SMA plug. And some glue of course! Result? It’s definitely directional 🙂 I’m not using it very often, but it’s small enough to be taken everywhere where I take my X10S.
It is done. It is alive. My 3D printed FPV racing drone works. A few weeks ago I finally flight tested my design and it works! Even better than expected, since I survived the experience without a scratch. OK, I did not crash it yet, but give me some time for that too….
And I have a cool name for it: Isando which means hammer in Zulu. Kind of fits, right?
Ah, STL files are available on Thingiverse of course.
My 3D printed racing drone is done. More or less. I was able to finish it a few weeks ago and even perform a maiden flight. It survived the experience, but I also discovered few problems I will have to solve before officially calling this project a success.
First of all, the decision about hard mounting a flight controller and not installing a capacitor on mains was a bad one. Not only motors are “twitching” from time to time, a video is very noisy. I hope big low ESR capacitor will solve that, since there is no way for soft mounting for this frame.
Besides that, it worked just fine. I will try to prepare a video from the maiden flight in a few day, for now only a few pictures and final specification:
- Frame: PLA 3D Printed, 220mm motor-to-motor diagonal
- Motors: EMAX RS2205S 2300KV
- ESC: Racestar RS30A BLHeli_S
- Flight controller: FrSky XSRF3O running Betaflight 3.2
- VTX: TS5823 200mW
- Camera: RunCam Swift
- Total weight, no battery: 380g
Total build is, of course, heavy, but not that heavy as I feared. I was expecting something way above 400g. The frame is also quite stiff. I wonder how much beating it will be able to take….