3D Printed Paddleboat

3D Printed Paddle Wheel Boat

It's not a secret, that me, and QuadMeUp, are not only about quadcopters. From time to time I like to do something completely different.

When I was a child (10-12 or something like that) I loved to build boats. Simple crude design: styrofoam or bark, simple sail or DC motor and tinwire propeller. No RC link. Just let it sail in "somewhere there".

When I got a 3D printer and learned that servos can be converted to continuous rotation simply by replacing potentiometer with a pair of resistors, the idea to build paddle wheel boat powered by servos was almost obvious.

So, here it is!

3d printed paddle wheel boat

  • Hull can be 3D printed, STL files are available on Thingiverse
  • Wheels are powered by 2 TowerPro 9g servos converted to continuous rotation
  • RC link by cheapest FrSky compatible D8 receiver
  • 2S LiPo gives enough "juice" and with power usage of about 300mA it can sail for hours

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3D Printed Faceplate for SkyZone SKY-01 FPV goggles

While SkyZone SKY-01 are pretty good FPV goggles, they are not very comfortable. Instead big faceplate, they only have rubber eyecups. This approach works, but well…

Like always, there is a solution: 3D printed faceplate for SkyZone SKY-01. Thingieverse has at least few different designs, but I’ve chose the one from the link above. They fit right and do not have fan adapter which I do not use.

Foam pads for faceplate are a second problem. In first iteration I just uses gray sponge I had at home and white, dense, closed foam from Emax motors and glued everything together with Uhu Por. Continue reading “3D Printed Faceplate for SkyZone SKY-01 FPV goggles” »

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3D Printed HC-12 and HC-06 telemetry relay box

It’s a very nice feeling when people starts to create accessories for your inventions. OK, maybe “invention” is too strong word here, but still.

EduardoChamorro designed a 3D printed case for my HC-12 433MHz to HC-06 Bluetooth bridge that I published here last year.

LRS to Bluetooth 3D Printed case

It’s small, it has a switch and status LED. It also has integrated LiPo battery and a charger. Awesome!

Project can be downloaded from Thingiverse.

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Review: BuildTak Printing Surface

For last few months I’ve been happily 3D printing PLA on glass. Prints were repeatable, initial adhesion was just fine, ready print was easy to remove after glass cooled down. But I wouldn’t be me if I did not wanted to try something new. So I tried “the ideal 3D printing surface” BuiltTak.

My initial impressions were very positive. Nice mate surface a little similar to fine grain sanding paper. I was a little afraid that adhesion will be even too good and it will be hard to remove the print. But hey, they had to think of it, right? After all, BuildTak is quite expensive after all. Continue reading “Review: BuildTak Printing Surface” »

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How to print with elastic filament

Elastic filaments opened brand new areas for 3D printing. We are finally able to print something that bends, compresses and stretches. While TPE (ThermoPlastic Elastomer) filaments like NinjaFlex or FlexiSmart are still about 4 times more expensive than plain old PLA, they are not so expensive not to give them a try.

Unfortunately, due to the fact that they are elastic even before melted and extruded, they require special printing conditions. During my experiments with FlexiSmart I've came down to following conclusions:

  1. Because TPE is elastic, flow through the nozzle has to be as smooth as possible. If not, it will coil inside extruder
  2. Bowden extruder system greatly increases chance of failure. Friction of bowden, while small enough for ABS or PLA, is too big for TPE. Filament will coil. Direct extruder gives less chance of failure
  3. One has to pay big attention to the distance between extruder nozzle and bed. Usually it has to be a litter bigger that for PLA or ABS. In all the cases when I was switching from PLA to TPE, I had to raise nozzle a little. If not, TPE coiled. TPE has better initial adhesion than PLA, so rising a nozzle does not have side effects
  4. Filament retraction is a huge NO NO. Disable retraction since it will increase the chance of coiling significantly
  5. With no retraction it is a good idea to enable Combing. Nozzle, instead of taking the shortest route to travel, dripping TPE everywhere, will move above already printed layer. This greatly improves print quality
  6. Top printing speed is 30mm/s, but I recommend slower speeds. I have best results when printing at 15mm/s. On 25mm/s quality is still acceptable, but degradation starts to be visible
  7. I had best results of TPE printing on glass with 220deg nozzle temperature and 60deg bed temperature
  8. Not everything can be printed with elastic filament. Any thin vertical structure will come deformed. After all, it will move during printing due to a friction with extruder nozzle

While I was printing with FlexiSmart, almost all points from the above list will be true for other TPE (NinjaFlex). Temperatures might be slightly different, but general rules applies.

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3D Printed 433MHz Moxon Antenna With Arm And Snap Mount

It’s still middle of winter here in northern hemisphere, but I’m slowly preparing for next flying season. One of my goals is to push my DIY HC-12 Telelemetry System to a next level. In both range and quality. For quality I’m planning small hardware LTM decoder with LCD. For range, I want to reach at least 1.5km with 9600bps FU3 mode and 2.5km with 1200bps FU4 mode.

Continue reading “3D Printed 433MHz Moxon Antenna With Arm And Snap Mount” »

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Project Dualcopter – worklog #2

3 weeks after my first post on Project Dualcopter, it's time for small update. The plan was to install servos and control surfaces. Instead, I've done:

  • Basic electrical wiring for motors and ESCs. They have power now and are ready to be connected to flight controller
  • To level shelf (above propellers) designed to hold flight controller and radio receiver
  • Think for a moment about landing gear. Yeap, there will be some sort of shock absorbers
  • Think for a moment where battery will be placed: as low as possible to keep center of gravity below center of thrust
  • Decide which propeller should run clockwise and which should run counterclockwise: top should go clockwise, bottom should go counterclockwise

dualcopter esc soldering

dualcopter esc

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Project Dualcopter – worklog #1

Flying season 2016 is slowly coming to an end on northern hemisphere. That means less time spent on an airfield and more time spent behind a desk. For this autumn I've found a very interesting, small project: Dualcopter.

Dualcopter is an UAV with two coaxial contra-rotating propellers and 2 control surfaces driven by servos. Lift and yaw are controlled by propellers, while pitch and roll by ailerons placed below motors. This video illustrates how it looks like:

My Dualcopter will be slightly different. Instead of foam and wood I will use 3D printed parts connected together CA glue and zip ties. Maybe it will not be super strong and probably will not survive any crash, but should be enough to make it fly for a minute or so. Almost all parts would be either 3D printed or taken from spare box. I'm not planning any new purchases.

Planned specs:

  • Motors: Turnigy MT2213 935KV
  • Props: APC 1045 MR
  • ESC: Afro 20A
  • FC: Flip32 probably with INAV inside
  • Battery: 1300mAh 3S
  • Weight: around 800g with battery

dualcopter 1

So far, after 2 evenings I have this:

dualcopter 2

Two motors mounted on a frame.

Next step would be to build bottom section with ailerons and battery compartment.

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