Review: BuildTak Printing Surface

For last few months I’ve been happily 3D printing PLA on glass. Prints were repeatable, initial adhesion was just fine, ready print was easy to remove after glass cooled down. But I wouldn’t be me if I did not wanted to try something new. So I tried “the ideal 3D printing surface” BuiltTak.

My initial impressions were very positive. Nice mate surface a little similar to fine grain sanding paper. I was a little afraid that adhesion will be even too good and it will be hard to remove the print. But hey, they had to think of it, right? After all, BuildTak is quite expensive after all. Continue reading “Review: BuildTak Printing Surface” »

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How to print with elastic filament

Elastic filaments opened brand new areas for 3D printing. We are finally able to print something that bends, compresses and stretches. While TPE (ThermoPlastic Elastomer) filaments like NinjaFlex or FlexiSmart are still about 4 times more expensive than plain old PLA, they are not so expensive not to give them a try.

Unfortunately, due to the fact that they are elastic even before melted and extruded, they require special printing conditions. During my experiments with FlexiSmart I've came down to following conclusions:

  1. Because TPE is elastic, flow through the nozzle has to be as smooth as possible. If not, it will coil inside extruder
  2. Bowden extruder system greatly increases chance of failure. Friction of bowden, while small enough for ABS or PLA, is too big for TPE. Filament will coil. Direct extruder gives less chance of failure
  3. One has to pay big attention to the distance between extruder nozzle and bed. Usually it has to be a litter bigger that for PLA or ABS. In all the cases when I was switching from PLA to TPE, I had to raise nozzle a little. If not, TPE coiled. TPE has better initial adhesion than PLA, so rising a nozzle does not have side effects
  4. Filament retraction is a huge NO NO. Disable retraction since it will increase the chance of coiling significantly
  5. With no retraction it is a good idea to enable Combing. Nozzle, instead of taking the shortest route to travel, dripping TPE everywhere, will move above already printed layer. This greatly improves print quality
  6. Top printing speed is 30mm/s, but I recommend slower speeds. I have best results when printing at 15mm/s. On 25mm/s quality is still acceptable, but degradation starts to be visible
  7. I had best results of TPE printing on glass with 220deg nozzle temperature and 60deg bed temperature
  8. Not everything can be printed with elastic filament. Any thin vertical structure will come deformed. After all, it will move during printing due to a friction with extruder nozzle

While I was printing with FlexiSmart, almost all points from the above list will be true for other TPE (NinjaFlex). Temperatures might be slightly different, but general rules applies.

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3D Printed 433MHz Moxon Antenna With Arm And Snap Mount

It’s still middle of winter here in northern hemisphere, but I’m slowly preparing for next flying season. One of my goals is to push my DIY HC-12 Telelemetry System to a next level. In both range and quality. For quality I’m planning small hardware LTM decoder with LCD. For range, I want to reach at least 1.5km with 9600bps FU3 mode and 2.5km with 1200bps FU4 mode.

Continue reading “3D Printed 433MHz Moxon Antenna With Arm And Snap Mount” »

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Project Dualcopter – worklog #2

3 weeks after my first post on Project Dualcopter, it's time for small update. The plan was to install servos and control surfaces. Instead, I've done:

  • Basic electrical wiring for motors and ESCs. They have power now and are ready to be connected to flight controller
  • To level shelf (above propellers) designed to hold flight controller and radio receiver
  • Think for a moment about landing gear. Yeap, there will be some sort of shock absorbers
  • Think for a moment where battery will be placed: as low as possible to keep center of gravity below center of thrust
  • Decide which propeller should run clockwise and which should run counterclockwise: top should go clockwise, bottom should go counterclockwise

dualcopter esc soldering

dualcopter esc

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Project Dualcopter – worklog #1

Flying season 2016 is slowly coming to an end on northern hemisphere. That means less time spent on an airfield and more time spent behind a desk. For this autumn I've found a very interesting, small project: Dualcopter.

Dualcopter is an UAV with two coaxial contra-rotating propellers and 2 control surfaces driven by servos. Lift and yaw are controlled by propellers, while pitch and roll by ailerons placed below motors. This video illustrates how it looks like:

My Dualcopter will be slightly different. Instead of foam and wood I will use 3D printed parts connected together CA glue and zip ties. Maybe it will not be super strong and probably will not survive any crash, but should be enough to make it fly for a minute or so. Almost all parts would be either 3D printed or taken from spare box. I'm not planning any new purchases.

Planned specs:

  • Motors: Turnigy MT2213 935KV
  • Props: APC 1045 MR
  • ESC: Afro 20A
  • FC: Flip32 probably with INAV inside
  • Battery: 1300mAh 3S
  • Weight: around 800g with battery

dualcopter 1

So far, after 2 evenings I have this:

dualcopter 2

Two motors mounted on a frame.

Next step would be to build bottom section with ailerons and battery compartment.

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3D Print Timelapse Video

Few days ago I've decided to do something new: timelapse video of a 3D print. It's kind of fascinating to watch extruder places layer after layer of molten PLA… too bad it's taking so long to print something bigger…

  • Printer: Malyan M150
  • Thing: 35 deg RunCam HD / Mobius stand for mini-quads
  • Filament: PLA
  • Speed: 50mm/s

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3D Printing: rubber launched glider

3D Printers give almost endless possibilities and 3D printed gliders can be a great weekend project. Last week I’ve printed a small fleet of Monarch XL gliders from Thingieverse. Single glider takes around 45 minutes to print at 50mm/s and few additional minutes to glue all the parts together. Add an hour for a rubber launcher and done. Great fun for a small price. It flies surprisingly well and my daughters loves them.

3d printed glider airplane

3d printed gliders

Flight characteristics improves when dihedral is added. Also elevator can be adjusted, so glider can do loops! Great fun for a very low price!

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3D Printed RunCam HD / Mobius camera mount for Reptile X4R 220

After I finished my new Reptile X4R 220 racing mini-quad, I've realized, that there is no way I will be able to mount my RunCam HD on it. Comparing to ZMR250, 220 frame is just small. On a top plate there is enough room to fit battery, RC and FPV antennas and all what is left is around 35mm in the front. Plus, with angled FPV camera, there just no place for RunCam HD/Mobius form factor cameras. So, some time with 123D Design and few hours of printing, and here we are: 25 degrees mount for RunCam HD and Mobius camera specially designed for Reptile X4R 220 frame

25deg Runcam HC and Mobius Camera mount for Reptile X4R 220

This mount has 25 degrees inclination, will fit both RunCam HD and Mobius (not sure about RunCam HD2…) and its base is only 42x32mm. So it can be installed on small frames like 220. But, it will also fit bigger. No problems here.

25deg Runcam HC and Mobius Camera mount for Reptile X4R 220

The best way to install it on a frame is to use either zip ties or double sided velcro straps. There is a slot for 20mm wide velcro straps. To make it better, use 3M Dual Lock between.

To securely install camera also use 3M Dual Lock and use a velcro strap too. That should keep everything in place just fine.

3D Printed 25deg Runcam HC and Mobius Camera mount for Reptile X4R 220

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